Janja Garnbret claims back-to-back IFSC World Cup lead wins in Villars as Homma Taisei secures first victory

Olympic sport climbing champion Janja Garnbret once again showed her dominance in the second round of the IFSC Lead World Cup Series 2022 in Villars, Switzerland on Saturday (2 July).

Brooke Raboutou set the standard with a 37+ but Slovenian hero Garnbret, who won the semi-final earlier in the day, became the only climber on the day to reach the top right at the end of the competition.

Natalia Grossman (35+) made it second and third for the United States with Italy's Laura Rogora (31+) in fourth.

Last week's runner-up in Innsbruck, Korea's Chaehyun Seo, was sixth after registered a 17+.

Afterwards, Garnbret told IFSC, "I feel amazing. This was one of the best routes on the circuit. I felt like I was climbing with flow, just like enjoying myself on the route. I was also super-fast so I did enjoy it very much.

"Maybe I felt kind of rusty in Innsbruck because I haven't had many competitions, but after the semis I felt in the flow and that I could do the same here in Villars.

"I feel like this was easier than Innsbruck which was the hardest route I've ever climbed. This one looked harder but I feel like the hardest part was just the last two moves. I really enjoyed it."

Garnbret took the bouldering World Cup opener in Meiringen in April and has since won both lead competitions.

Homma denies American pair to score first World Cup win

Homma Taisei sprung something of a surprise in the men's competition by taking victory ahead of American duo Jesse Grupper and Colin Duffy.

The Japanese was first to go in the final and reached hold 36+, failing to overcome the very tricky finale to the course.

Teenager Duffy moved into second place on 34 with Grupper, the last man to start having won the semi-final, making it to 34+. Both men were on the podium for the second consecutive weekend after Duffy took victory, and Grupper third, in Innsbruck.

This was 22-year-old Homma's first World Cup win and his first IFSC triumph since taking the Asian Youth title in 2018.

Speaking afterwards to IFSC via an interpreter, Homma said, "I was very disappointed with my result at Innsbruck so I tried to do my best here. I tried to concentrate on myself. In the semi-finals, I didn't feel great but I had lots of messages of support from friends in Japan and that helped me in the final."

Last week's runner-up and Friday's top qualifier Yurikusa Ao (18+) finished down in eighth place. Germany's Yannick Flohe (33) was just off the podium in fourth.