Sport Climbing World Cup 2023 Wujiang: Japan dominates final event, as Mori Ai and Anraku Sorato claim lead titles
Japan took five medals with Mori Ai and Anraku Sorato winning the last event of the IFSC Sport Climbing World Cup season in Wujiang, People's Republic of China. Two-time world champion Jessica Pilz clinched the women's overall lead title.
Sport Climbing
Reigning world champion Mori Ai of Japan took her first World Cup win of the season in front of an adoring crowd at the IFSC Sport Climbing World Cup in Wujiang, People’s Republic of China on Sunday (24 September).
On the men's side, 16-year-old phenom Anraku Sorato stole the show again in the final round of the 2023 World Cup, taking his third gold of the season.
Four years his senior, 20-year-old Mori was the last climber to step up to the wall and had to beat Austrian Olympian Jessica Pilz who climbed decisively to 31+.
The Japanese athlete showed no sign of buckling under the pressure as she progressed to the top. And while Mori did not manage to top the course, 36+ was more than enough to finish the World Cup series with a gold medal.
Two-time world champion Pilz finished in second place, which awarded her the women’s overall World Cup lead title, with 3235 points, for the first time in her career.
Tokyo 2020 Olympic champion Janja Garnbret did not compete in Wujiang, but secured second place overall thanks to the 3000 points she collected by winning the three events she participated in this season.
The Slovenian star has won the overall World Cup five times in her career. The Olympic champion’s compatriot Vita Lukan took the last spot on the overall podium.
Sport Climbing World Cup 2023 Wujiang – Women's Lead Final results
- Mori Ai (JPN) - 36+
- Jessica Pilz (AUT) - 31+
- Tanii Natsuki (JPN) - 26+
- Zhang Yuetong (CHN) - 22+
- Ito Futaba (JPN) - 22
- Nonaka Miho (JPN) - 21+
- Kim Jain (KOR) - 20+
- Manon Hily (FRA) - 17+
Anraku Sorato puts on another dominant performance
Japanese sensation Anraku Sorato proved again that he is the one to look out for in the future, securing his fifth podium finish of the season in the men’s lead World Cup.
Just like his compatriot Mori in the women's lead, Anraku was the last climber to tackle the difficult course. Unfazed by the challenge, the teenager confidently flew up the wall reaching 39+ to clinch the win.
Omata Shion and Homma Taisei took second and third place to complete a Japanese podium sweep.
Anraku had already guaranteed himself the men's overall lead title before the last stop of the season after winning in Koper, Slovenia. Second in the men’s overall lead World Cup was Alexander Megos of Germany with Japanese Homma Taisei walking away with third.
The IFSC World Cup offers climbers an opportunity to earn ranking points that count towards invitations to the Olympic Qualifier Series, which represent the final opportunity to qualify for the Paris 2024 Olympic Games.
Sport Climbing World Cup 2023 Wujiang – Men's Lead Final results
- Anraku Sorato (JPN) - 39+
- Omata Shion (JPN) - 30+
- Homma Taisei (JPN) - 26+
- Ogata Yoshiyuki (JPN) - 26+
- Song Yunchan (KOR) - 24+
- Yurikusa Ao (JPN) - 23+
- Sasch Lehmann (SUI) - 23
- Nicolas Collin (BEL) - 23