Sport Climbing World Cup 2023 Wujiang: Wu Peng and Deng Lijuan triumphs on home soil

Wu Peng and Deng Lijuan led the charge for the host nation, winning the men's and women's competitions in the final speed event of the IFSC Sport Climbing World Cup season in Wujiang, People's Republic of China.

3 minBy Ockert de Villiers
A female sport climber celebrates by waving to the spectators after a climb.
(Dimitris Tosidis/IFSC)

The People’s Republic of China team brought the 2023 speed climbing season to an emphatic close with Wu Peng and Deng Lijuan winning the men’s and women’s gold medals on home soil on Saturday (23 September).

China celebrated the return of the IFSC Sport Climbing World Cup to Wujiang by winning a total of four medals - two apiece in the men’s and women’s competitions. The Asian nation last hosted a World Cup in 2019 before the global pandemic.

The World Cup in Wujiang delivered some early drama with two-time world champion and world record holder Aleksandra Miroslaw suffering a shock early exit in the women's quarter-finals. Miroslaw, who secured a Paris 2024 quota for Poland at the IFSC Speed European Qualifier Rome 2023 earlier this month, slipped near the bottom of her climb handing Niu Di of China safe passage to the top.

The women’s competition came to an exciting conclusion with Deng taking on 2021 world champion Natalia Kalucka of Poland in the final. The Chinese climber got the best of both Kalucka sisters en route to her first victory of the season after beating Aleksandra Kalucka in their semi-final duel.

Deng stormed to victory in a time of 6.58 seconds with Natalia Kalucka touching in 6.69 to settle for the silver medal.

In the small final, Niu earned the bronze medal after Aleksandra Kalucka stumbled at the start of her run and could not catch up to the flying Chinese athlete.

Meanwhile, Wu claimed his first gold medal of the season in the men’s competition after finishing as runner-up in Salt Lake City in May. 

The 20-year-old climber spearheaded a Chinese 1-2 podium by beating compatriot Huang Jingjie in a blistering climb nearly breaking through the five-second barrier with a winning time of 5.05. Huang stopped the clock at 5.10 for the silver.

Japan’s **Omasa Ryo **walked away with the bronze medal after beating Shin Euncheol of the Republic of Korea by 0.05s in the small final.

In addition to the silverware, the IFSC World Cup offers climbers an opportunity to earn ranking points that count towards invitations to the Olympic Qualifier Series, which represents the final opportunity to qualify for the Paris 2024 Olympic Games.

2023 Sport Climbing World Cup in Wujiang: Schedule

All times are in UTC+8

Sunday, 24 September

  • 19:00 Lead finals

*Schedule subject to change

How to watch the Sport Climbing World Cup 2023 in Wujiang

Live coverage of the action is available on Olympic Channel via Olympics.com (territorial restrictions may apply).

It is also available via International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) partner broadcasters and the federation's YouTube Channel.

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