Luka Potocar: Using sport climbing lessons to overcome battles away from the wall
In an exclusive interview with Olympics.com, the lead World silver medallist reveals how he was inspired by his cancer-beating girlfriend Lucka Rakovec, and the major effect Olympic champion Janja Garnbret has had on Slovenia.
Sport Climbing
Luka Potocar is addicted to sport climbing.
The Slovenian grabbed headlines in the sport in 2021 by winning silver at the lead World Championships in Moscow, before sealing European silver in Munich a year later.
At just 22 years of age and already a multiple World Cup winner, he is now clear on the traits that have seen him achieve so much success ahead of the Olympic Qualifier Series (OQS) in Shanghai.
“I think mentality is a pretty good thing for me,” he told Olympics.com.
“I started pretty young at the World Cup in 2018. It’s so important to climb without stress, with bravery, and without hesitation on the wall.
“I’ve learnt to stay calm on the wall even if there's a move I’m not sure about. Panicking only makes things worse.
“I have plenty of experience in the sport already, so I don't have anyone to help me with the mental side of things. For now, I don't think I need that.
“Of course, as a lead climbing specialist, I think endurance is pretty good for me too.”
Helping Lucka Rakovec through cancer
Potocar’s mental strength and bravery off the wall were severely tested in November 2023 when his girlfriend and fellow professional climber, Lucka Rakovec, was diagnosed with thyroid cancer.
After a successful surgery, she was hit with a viral stomach infection, and the rehabilitation took a toll on them both.
“It was not very easy. I now feel really exhausted about everything that happened,” Potocar continued.
“One of the toughest things was her relationship with climbing. She was pretty down and didn't know how to train again. So it was pretty hard for two months but I just stayed with her all the time and tried to keep her motivated to start climbing again.
“Of course, I knew that it wouldn’t be a big problem for her because she loves climbing. But at the end of the day, it's health first and then start climbing again.
*“*But now everything is pretty much OK, so it was worth the wait, and we got her ready for the Olympic qualifiers.”
As an elite climber, Rakovec processes impressive determination to succeed.
But her partner is unsure whether this was a help or a hindrance during her comeback.
“Maybe being an athlete can be good, but sometimes it's not because you're constantly trying to put the sport first,” Potocar said, smiling.
“So maybe you're not going to listen to your body or return to sport too fast. You maybe don’t feel so well but you just keep trying to train as you normally would, and you could make things worse. Patience is the most important part.”
Janja Garnbret's effect on Slovenia
Potocar and Rakovec are products of a boom in sport climbing’s popularity in Slovenia over the past decade, spearheaded by Janja Garnbret.
The 25-year-old lead and bouldering superstar won her first of eight world titles in 2016, while also landing the sport’s first-ever Olympic title at Tokyo 2020 despite having to compete in a combined event that included speed races.
“Janja has been huge in the sport since I was young alongside Mina Markovic - there were so many good climbers in Slovenia when I was young. It's a really special feeling to look up to these people and compete in the same competitions,” Potocar admitted.
“I learnt a lot from Janja especially because I’m with her most of the time at competitions. I see her in different situations, like when she is performing well when she's not performing so well - which doesn’t happen so much. But it's really good to see how she prepares and the mood she is in before. If I’m ever in trouble she is one that I can ask for help.
The knock on effect of this success changed the sporting landscape in Slovenia, which now counts climbing as one of its most popular sports.
“Climbing ten years ago wasn’t even close to the popularity it has in Slovenia now. There are specialist gyms in every city.
“We have a huge national training centre in Ljubljana and the boulder gym is always full. It's actually hard to climb because there are so many people! I think this is like a really good thing for the sport.
“Of course, I think the main reason is Janja because when climbing made it to the Olympic Games and she won, I think that's the biggest thing you can do for a sport. It’s now one of the biggest sports in the country.”
Luka Potocar's other sporting passions
Unsurprisingly, rock climbing in the natural environment has also seen a surge in popularity in the eastern European nation.
Potocar is no different, and often partakes in it during his “off season”.
That said, he also recognises the importance of balance, and draws inspiration from many other areas of his life.
“Music is great for motivation, to get me in the right kind of mood," he said.
“I'm also a general sports lover, like I’m a really huge Liverpool football fan. I watch football pretty much all the time. I don't know how I can explain it, but it gives me a feeling that even when I'm watching climbing, I don't feel it. When I'm watching football, I feel that passion, that motivation. So I think that's the biggest thing for me to get motivation from.
“Fighting for the 90 minutes in football, it's not easy. And I think that's the biggest thing for me, to look for motivation in other sports.” - Luka Potocar to Olympics.com
But while football is Potocar’s passion, climbing remains his ‘addiction’.
A combination of its physical challenge, combined with the mental fortitude required to figure out a lead problem, means that he is endlessly striving to improve.
Add this to the community atmosphere that is central to the sport at all levels, and Potocar is never happier than when he is climbing.
“I love the constant challenge. There is always a boulder, a route that you can turn to. You can improve.
“I think it's really addictive at the lower level. When you start climbing, there are always new moves to learn like technique and power, and you can see your progress.
“In terms of the great community, there's lots of people that don’t know each other at climbing gyms and they still come together and help each other improve. That's what I love.”
You can Potocar and Rakovec in action at the Olympic Qualifier Series (OQS) in Shanghai from 16 to 19 May live on Olympic Channel via Olympics.com and the official Olympics app for mobile devices.