Pan American Games 2023: Piper Kelly wins speed climbing title to obtain Paris quota spot
Kelly claimed a surprise gold when pre-event favourite Emma Hunt false-started in an all-American final after Andrea Rojas took bronze for Ecuador.
Sport Climbing
Piper Kelly became the first ever Pan American Games sport climbing champion in the speed event in Santiago on Saturday (21 October).
The 24-year-old from Indianapolis was effectively handed the title when world silver medallist Emma Hunt false-started in the final.
That gave Kelly a free run and she clocked a personal best 7.52 to take gold and secure a second and final Paris 2024 quota spot for the United States.
Hunt - whose world silver in Bern in August obtained a first Olympic quota berth - had looked in superb form leading up to the final, winning her quarter-final in 6.76.
When she stopped the clock in 6.71 to take the first semi-final against Ecuador's Andrea Rojas, that meant the second semi between Kelly and another American, Sophia Curcio, would decide the destiny of the one Olympic quota on offer in the Chilean capital.
After an even start, a significant slip from Curcio just before the midway point proved decisive with Kelly crying tears of joy after her personal best 7.69.
Kelly went even quicker in the final, following Hunt's transgression, and said afterwards, "I'm honestly super overwhelmed. My goal was to win and get that Olympic ticket, but I'm totally in disbelief that I got it.
"It was such a good comp. I set my personal best in competition. I can't wait for Paris."
NOCs have the exclusive authority for the representation of their respective NOC teams at the Olympic Games. Athletes' participation at the Paris Games depends on their NOC selecting them to represent their delegation at Paris 2024.
Rojas prevented a USA podium sweep by defeating Curcio in the bronze medal match.
Result from women's speed climbing at Pan American Games 2023:
Quarter-Finals
Emma Hunt (USA) 6.76 def. Carmen Contreras (CHI) 9.30
Valeria Macias (MEX) 8.19 lost to Andrea Rojas (ECU) 7.60
Sophia Curcio (USA) 7.83 def. Erica Velev (CAN) 8.41
Piper Kelly (USA) 7.85 def. Anahi Riveros (CHI) 8.57
Semi-Finals
Emma Hunt (USA) 6.71 def. Andrea Rojas (ECU) 7.74
Sophia Curcio (USA) 9.67 lost to Piper Kelly (USA) 7.69
Bronze medal match
Andrea Rojas (ECU) 7.59 def. Sophia Curcio (USA) X
Gold medal match
Emma Hunt (USA) FS lost to Piper Kelly (USA) 7.52