Mia Krampl exclusive: "I always want to see where my limits are"
The Slovenian is pleased that sport climbing will change its format at Paris 2024 - and opens up on how she's driven by countrywoman, Olympic champion Janja Garnbret.
Sport Climbing
Slovenian sport climber Mia Krampl likes to push her own limits.
So much, in fact, that she qualified for Tokyo 2020 – the first Olympics to feature her sport.
“Every boulder and every route, I'm testing my limit,” the 22-year-old told Olympics.com in an exclusive interview. “I think that's my favourite part of competing: I always want to see where my limits are... and I want to be better than others.”
Many climbers, Krampl included, will tell you that the second part of her answer – being “better than others” – goes against the grain of this community-driven activity, which has exploded in popularity at both gym walls and on natural boulders all over the world.
Mia Krampl: 'Possibilities are limitless'
But with another IFSC World Cup season set to get underway this weekend (21 April) in Hachioji, Japan, Krampl and her peers – including reigning Olympic gold medallist and fellow Slovenian Janja Garnbret – will push those limits again, as the mountaintop of Paris 2024 comes into view.
“When I'm in the route, when I'm climbing, I don't think about results,” Krampl said. “I'm mostly focussed on my climbing and I want to do the best that I can. ... But the possibilities are limitless; that’s what Janja shows us.
The “limitless” Garnbret is not only the Olympic champion, but also a six-time world champ, and has moved Slovenia, a nation of just over 2 million people on the Adriatic Sea, to the forefront of the sport.
Krampl included.
“She tops every route, she tops every boulder, but there's still a lot of new goals that she can achieve, even if some people say that she achieved everything,” Krampl said of Garnbret. “She always find something to motivate her and to achieve more. She's like a perfect example to show that there's no limits in climbing.”
Mia Krampl: Inspired by Olympic champion Janja Garnbret
While Krampl has forged her own path in the sport, including a silver medal in the women’s combined at the World Championships in 2021, Garnbret remains a powerful force for her and for team Slovenia, which continues to be a steady force in the sport.
“We learn a lot from Janja,” Krampl said, noting that their time at home training together is of value to the entire team. “Mostly it's her determination and how she goes into moves.”
She continued: “When Janja jumps, she's never scared of anything. She will go into the move 100 percent. And that's one of the best parts that I'm still learning: When I see her, I'm like, 'Okay, I have to go in the route or in the boulder as Janja goes and do the move.’ And not go a little bit scared... Janja never thinks, ‘What can happen if I fall?’”
“The way she trains and the way she does the moves, it's... it's insane. Yeah.”
Mia Krampl on climbing changes for Paris 2024
While Garnbret has grown into a national icon with her achievements on the wall, Krampl is part of a fierce group that includes herself and close friend Lucka Rakovec that is looking to continue to make their mark for the sport on the international stage.
Krampl and Rakovec found themselves in a heartbreaking scenario ahead of Tokyo 2020: One Olympic spot left, the two of them climbing for it. Krampl, in the end, had the edge.
“It was really hard to see your best friend's dreams fade away,” Krampl said. “But that's all part of the sport. We were both really sad at the time, but we slowly forgot about everything and we just continued normally... I don’t know how to explain that.”
There is set to be more opportunity for climbers, however, at the coming Paris Games, with the sport climbing event being split into one set of medals for speed climbing and another for Boulder and lead combined.
The total number of athletes will increase from 40 to 68.
“I definitely still feel like I need a lot of training to improve my bouldering skills, [including] my coordination, my slabs,” Krampl said. “That's why I decided this year to train only boulders and try to train as much as possible on route-centred boulders, on competition-style boulders.”
“I feel way better and way more confident about the [Olympic] combined format.”
Mia Krampl: Slovenian strength - and a jaguar tattoo
In lead climbing, Slovenia has five of the Top 25 in the IFSC’s rankings, with Garnbret ranked No. 1, and Krampl seventh. While Japan has six women in that same group, there is something unique about the way the Slovenian talent pipeline has developed.
But what is it?
“It's really hard to answer,” a smiling Krampl said. “I think it’s the way we train: We really focus on quality and not so much on quantity.”
“We train together a lot, the national team members,” she added. “And I guess that's what's really good for us. When you train with all other girls that are really strong, it makes you want to become better and stronger.”
Much like the jaguar tattoo that features on the front of her right thigh, which Krampl said symbolises her “inner spirit.”
“I don’t know how to explain it, but when I see the tattoo, it makes me focus more and be in the zone,” she said. “It gives me like this 100 percent attitude. And yes, it's a wild cat. And I'm a little wild, too. Of course, if you’re a climber, you cannot be a normal person.”