China's Deng Lijuan claims back-to-back speed gold medals with win in IFSC World Cup in Chamonix

Deng Lijuan continued her superb sport climbing run on the wall with her victory in the speed final at the IFSC World Cup in Chamonix, France. China claimed both the men’s and women’s titles for the second time in as many World Cups.

Deng came painstakingly close to the world record, touching at the top in a time of 6.55 seconds to beat Poland’s Aleksandra Kalucka in the final. Her time was 0.02s short of the world record held by Aleksandra Miroslaw, also from Poland.

In the all-Indonesian small final, Desak Made Rita Kusuma Dewi earned her second consecutive bronze medal at the World Cup after beating Rajiah Sallsabillah.

Long Jinbao came out on top in a dual with Spanish speedster Erik Noya Cardona in the men's final to upgrade the bronze he won at the World Cup in Villars to gold.

Indonesian climber Aspar Aspar triumphed over compatriot Veddriq Leonardo, who again had to settle for fourth place after a fall in the small final.

There was disappointment for Indonesia’s Kiromal Katibin, who got knocked out in the first round of the finals, a day after he set another world record of 5.00 seconds in the qualifiers. The unforgiving nature of speed climbing discipline, where one slip up would cost you a race, was on display when Katibin made one slight misstep for an early exit.

You can find the full results of the women's speed final HERE and the men's results HERE.

The lead semi-finals and finals are scheduled for Sunday (July 10). The competition in Chamonix will be streamed on Olympics.com (geo-restrictions may apply).

Next up on the IFSC calendar

World Games (B,S,L) - Birmingham (USA) 2022

Thursday, 14 July: Speed qualifications and finals

Friday,15 July: Boulder qualifications and finals

Saturday,16 July: Lead qualifications and finals

IFSC Europe - Continental Cup (L,S) - Žilina (SVK)

Saturday 16 July: Lead qualifications, Speed qualifications and finals

Sunday, 17 July: Lead semi-finals and finals

Where to watch the speed climbing World Cup ?

You can watch all the action on Olympics.com (geo-restrictions may apply).