IFSC Climbing World Cup 2023 Seoul: Veddriq Leonardo tears down 5-second barrier to open speed season
In Seoul, the Indonesian goes under five seconds three times on his way to the title while Aleksandra Miroslaw rewrites her own world record to capture the women's crown in 6.25.
Sport Climbing
Veddriq Leonardo from Indonesia became the first man in sport climbing to break the five-second barrier on Friday (28 April).
And he did it not once, but three times.
Leonardo got the speed season off to a flying start in Seoul, Republic of Korea, winning the men’s final of the IFSC Climbing World Cup 2023 Seoul and setting a new world record of 4.90 seconds in the process.
Aleksandra Miroslaw was as dominant in the women’s competition, rewriting her own world record four times en route to the championship with a time of 6.25 in the final.
Leonardo made history in qualification by unleashing a 4.98.
That mark however didn’t stand for very long as the Indonesian threw down the 4.90 in the quarter-finals and followed it up with a 4.93 in the semis.
Leonardo looked like he would go under five for a fourth time in the final against Long Jinbao, but stuttered at the top and settled for only a 5.01.
Leonardo’s training partner and the former world record-holder, Kiromal Katibin, failed to even qualify for the final round, managing only a pedestrian 5.71/6.32.
“I’m super happy tonight,” Leonardo said. “I broke the record with 4.98 becoming the first man to record under five seconds - and I take the gold medal at the same time.
“It’s incredible, especially for the first event of the season.”
Miroslaw was on fire from qualifying, lowering her mark from the 6.53 she set in May 2022 to a 6.46 then to 6.37.
The Polish climber - one of three from her country to reach the last four on this night - was not yet done as she topped out at 6.35 in the semi-finals before slashing another tenth of a second in the title-decider vs compatriot Natalia Kalucka.
“I feel really happy. I mean, 6.25 is like wow,” Miroslaw said. “It was like my wishing time for this season - and I did it.
“I’m really happy for the other girls as well. It was a really fast competition. I’m really happy this sport is developing - and they are coming for me.”
The next stop on the speed circuit will be on Leonardo’s home soil in Jakarta on 6-7 May. Saturday in Seoul will feature the boulder qualification for both men and women.
Results - IFSC Climbing World Cup 2023 Seoul - Men's Speed final
- Vendriq Leonardo (INA) - 5.01
- Long Jinbao (CHN) - 5.12
- Wang Xinshang (CHN) - 5.11
- Long Jianguo (CHN) - 6.37
Results - IFSC Climbing World Cup 2023 Seoul - Women's Speed final
- Aleksandra Miroslaw (POL) - 6.25 WR
- Natalia Kalucka (POL) - 6.67
- Desak Made Rita Kusuma Dewi (INA) - 6.60
- Aleksandra Kalucka (POL) - 6.71
How to watch the IFSC Climbing World Cup 2023 Seoul
Live coverage of the action is available on Olympic Channel via Olympics.com (territorial restrictions may apply).
It will also be available via International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) partner broadcasters and their YouTube Channel.