Sport Climbing World Cup 2023 Hachioji: Mejdi Schalck secures boulder triumph
Frenchman Schalck collected his second World Cup gold medal with victory in the opening boulder competition of the 2023 Sport Climbing season in Hachioji, Japan.
Sport Climbing
Frenchman Mejdi Schalck ascended to the top of the podium in the season’s opening IFSC Sport Climbing World Cup boulder competition in Hachioji, Japan, on Sunday (23 April).
The 18-year-old topped two boulders and reached three zones to earn the second World Cup gold medal of his career. Schalck shared the podium with two other teenage climbers, including compatriot and training partner Paul Jenft who finished third.
Belgium’s junior world champion Hannes van Duysen won silver in his first World Cup final, producing his nation’s best result at sport climbing’s premier series.
But the night belonged to Schalck who did the hard work in the first two boulder tests, reaching the top in the first after four attempts in the dying moments of his climb. He topped the second after three attempts.
The fourth and final boulder got the better of the entire field, with none of the climbers even reaching the zone.
Schalck told the IFSC, "It is crazy, I am so happy. I trained very hard for this. I was motivated to top every boulder but I am a bit disappointed that I struggled at the beginning of the third one."
On his teammate Jenft also making the top three, he said, "I think it is the best part of the podium. I am very happy. It was a real goal because we have been training partners for a long time so I am very happy to share a podium with Paul."
The final was effectively a battle of experience versus youthful vigour, with world champion Fujii Kokoro and Chon Jong-won taking on some rising talent. The youngsters ultimately dominated, with Fujii finishing fourth and Chon sixth.
Results – Sport Climbing World Cup event in Hachioji 2023 – Men's Boulder Final
- Mejdi Schalck (FRA) – Top: 2, Zone: 3, Top attempts: 7
- Hannes van Duysen (BEL) – Top: 1, Zone: 3, Top attempts: 2
- Paul Jenft (FRA) – Top: 1, Zone: 3, Top attempts: 3
- Fujii Kokoro (JPN) – Top: 0, Zone: 3, Top attempts: 0
- Anraku Sorato (JPN) – Top: 0, Zone: 3, Top attempts: 0
- Chon Jongwon (KOR) – Top: 0, Zone: 3, Top attempts: 0