Who are the four U.S. women competing for the remaining quota spot in boulder and lead at the Olympic Qualifier Series?

It’s a battle of experience versus youth for the final U.S. women's Olympic boulder and lead spot.

At Paris 2024, sport climbing boulder and lead will be contested separately from speed. Twenty men and twenty women will compete in the boulder and lead combined event, with a maximum of two men and two women per country eligible.

Three of the four U.S. spots have already been claimed during the qualifying period, which included the FSC World Championships Bern 2023 and the Pan American Games 2023. The Olympic Qualifier Series (OQS) is the final opportunity for these athletes to advance to Paris 2024.

The two-part festival-style OQS will be held from 16 to 19 May in Shanghai, People's Republic of China and from 20 to 23 June in Budapest, Hungary. The sport climbers will compete in a lively venue with breaking, skateboarding and BMX freestyle athletes also vying for Olympic berths.

Which U.S. boulder and lead climbers have already secured quotas?

In the men’s division, Colin Duffy obtained a quota for his second Olympics after finishing 7th at Tokyo 2020. He secured his spot with a second-place finish at the IFSC World Championships Bern 2023. Jesse Grupper achieved a quota with a first-place finish at the Pan American Games 2023, which notably included an American podium sweep showcasing just how deep the talent level is on the men’s U.S. team.

In the women’s field, Natalia Grossman achieved an Olympic quota spot with a first-place finish at the Pan American Games 2023. This leaves just one open Olympic berth, with four U.S. women competing.

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As National Olympic Committees have the exclusive authority for the representation of their respective countries at the Olympic Games, athletes' participation at the Paris Games depends on their NOC selecting them to represent their delegation at Paris 2024.

Who are the four U.S. women competing in boulder and lead at the OQS?

Olympian Brooke Raboutou earned 5th in Tokyo 2020. She has climbed incredibly through the two qualifying events but has missed by the narrowest of margins. Her 4th place finish at the IFSC World Championships Bern 2023 was the best women’s U.S. result, but only the three highest-placed climbers per gender were granted a quota place. Then, at the Pan American Games 2023, she finished in silver behind U.S. teammate Grossman, but only the highest-placed athlete per gender was allocated a quota spot, and this one went to Grossman. Raboutou is currently the top-ranked U.S. woman in 3rd place worldwide in the ISFC World Rankings in boulder and lead.

With these impressive results and experience, Raboutou is a favorite to advance at the Olympic Qualifier Series.

Anastasia “Annie” Sanders made her mark at the 2023 USA Climbing National Team Trials when she took the top spot in both boulder and lead, earning the then-15-year-old a place on the U.S. National Team. In 2024 she followed with a win in lead again. These victories were not an anomaly; in November 2022, she won gold in both boulder and lead at the USA Climbing National Championships. Sanders is the youngest member of the U.S. National team. She has experienced a season of firsts in her rookie year in the adult climbing circuit, including competing at her first World Championship and Pan American Games. Sanders is currently ranked 12th worldwide in boulder and lead.

Olympian Kyra Condie finished 11th at Tokyo 2020, and, according to a recent interview with NECN, she would “love a chance at redemption on the Olympic stage.” The 27-year-old Salt Lake City, Utah resident’s most recent results include finishing 15th in boulder and 20th in boulder and lead at the IFSC World Championships Bern 2023. Condie is currently ranked 33rd worldwide in boulder and lead.

Kylie Cullen had some hits and misses over the past year. They finished 2nd in boulder and 6th in lead at the 2023 USA Climbing National Championships and earned 3rd place in boulder and lead at the 2023 National Team Trials behind Condie and Sanders. But at the IFSC World Championships Bern 2023, Cullen finished in 53rd. Cullen is currently ranked 57th worldwide in boulder and lead.

When will sport climbing be contested at Paris 2024?

The sport climbing competition at Paris 2024 will take place from 5 to 10 August in the brand new Le Bourget climbing venue.