Indonesia dominated the speed competitions at the IFSC Sport Climbing World Cup in Chamonix, France on Saturday (8 July) with Adi Mulyono and Rajiah Sallsabillah walking away with the men’s and women’s titles.
The speed-climbing powerhouse won four of the six medals on offer -- two gold and two bronze.
Mulyono produced an impressive surge at the top to beat Kazakhstan’s Rishat Khaibullin by the narrowest of margins with a time of 5.01 seconds to claim his maiden World Cup title. Khaibullin, who led from the start, reached the top just 0.04s behind the Indonesian.
The small final came down to even smaller margins, with Raharjati Nursamsa, the winner of the Jakarta World Cup, edging Japan’s Jun Yasukawa by 0.0001s for the bronze medal.
Meanwhile, in the women’s final Rajiah Sallsabillah also earned her first World Cup gold medal going up against home favourite Victoire Andrier in the final. The Indonesian ace kept her cool as her French competitor slipped on a few holds.
Sallsabillah topped in a time of 6.97s, with Andrier following in 9.59s to claim her first podium in Chamonix.
In another tight contest, Indonesia’s Nurul Iqamah won the bronze medal in the small final, beating Shaoqin Zhang by a hair’s breadth. Only 0.01s separated the two climbers from each other.
Poland’s Natalia Kalucka could not replicate her fine form from the last two competitions after winning claiming titles at the European Games and the World Cup in Villars. She got knocked out of the quarterfinals along with her sister, Aleksandra.