Korean sport climber Lee Dohyun: Like father, like son
In an exclusive interview ahead of the IFSC Asian Boulder and Lead Qualifier 2023, Lee Dohyun spoke to Olympics.com about his standout season, the influence of his father and why he is giving everything to make it to Paris 2024.
For those taking notes, the signs of Lee Dohyun’s promise were there to see as far back as last year.
After finishing second in bouldering at the IFSC World Cup in Innsbruck, Austria, the young gun sport climber from the Republic of Korea, flashed his potential star power again when he scooped up third at the Asian Championships combined.
But Lee’s real growth spurt, the one that has seen him capture attention for his exploits, has been this year, in 2023, where from behind the shadows of Chon Jongwon, the real ace in Korea’s men’s national team has emerged.
It all started with a golden World Cup outing in Czechia back in June.
“I would say that it was the most memorable moment of this season,” Lee told Olympics.com.
“I didn’t expect to win gold at all as I got injured during the warm-up session before the semi-final. It was difficult for me to extend my knee at that time, so I had difficulty landing,” he recalled.
“I decided to focus on what I could do, and I felt quite refreshed. In the final, it was the first time ever felt like that: it felt surreal when I held the top holder of the third boulder. I couldn’t even remember how I climbed.”
Far from just a mental triumph through injury, Lee’s breakthrough moment confirmed for him something he had started quietly suspecting: That he was good enough to do more.
“The gold medal gave me hope to compete at the Olympic Games.”
A challenging Asian Games outing
Not long after his win in Czechia, Lee found himself once more on the podium but this time, at the 2023 IFSC Climb World Championships in August.
The Korean brought home the bronze in men’s bouldering behind French pair Mickael Mawem and Mejdi Schalck.
It was a result that spurred him to hope for even more at the 19th Asian Games in Hangzhou, People’s Republic of China not long after.
Despite taking silver at the Games, Lee expressed regret with the outcome. The adverse weather conditions played a greater role than he would have liked denying him the opportunity to be his best.
“It rained during the final,” Lee explained.
“I was initially confident of claiming victory. However, a raindrop fell into my eyes while I was climbing the second boulder, causing me to fall off. My climbing shoes also got wet, and it was the first time I felt devastated during a competition.”
Reflecting on it, the Korean admits that while the unknown of the situation had thrown him off, he still has a lot to be grateful for. With his new hunger for top results, being exposed now means he can learn for the future.
“I don’t think the rain was at fault, but I was disappointed in myself for not being able to overcome that unexpected situation,” Lee says thoughtfully.
“It was all about my mentality. But I’m happy to have had this kind of experience before the Olympics.”
Lee Dohyun (L) on the podium after taking silver at the 19th Asian Games in Hangzhou
Paris 2024 dreams
With mention of the Olympics peppering the conversation, it’s clear that for Lee, the Games in Paris are a goal.
Having made its Olympic debut at the Tokyo 2020, in 2021, sport climbing’s return to the Olympic program for France means there is once more opportunity for climbers to compete on sport’s greatest stage.
And it’s a prospect the Korean is relishing.
“As an athlete, we all have our own goals to achieve, regardless of how big or how small they are before retiring from competitive sports. In that sense, for me, the Olympics is the ultimate accomplishment; it means everything to me,” Lee shared outlining the scope of his ambition.
“Whether or not I make it to the podium at Paris 2024, I would be very content to be on that stage. Being there would be very meaningful.”
Determined to obtain a quota for Paris, should Lee compete at the Games he won’t have to look too far for advice on how to navigate the competition. His father, Lee Changhyun led the Korean sport climbing team as coach in Tokyo.
In many ways, Lee’s father has often been a beacon for the climber. He was the reason he first got into the sport.
After founding a climbing centre when Lee was just five years old, it wasn't long after that the young boy had chalk in his hands. But the sport, he admitted, started off more as a hobby than as a pursuit.
“At that time, I preferred playing football,” Lee confessed.
But after a trip to the United States for climbing, Lee’s worldview expanded, and he realised that the wall was where he truly felt at home.
“Since then, I decided to focus on sport climbing.”
And he hasn't looked back.
Locked in on Paris 2024 qualification
Lee will have another opportunity to realise his Olympic dreams at the upcoming IFSC Asian Boulder and Lead Qualifier in Jakarta, Indonesia, which will award quotas to Paris 2024 for the highest-ranked climbers per gender.
For Lee, it means that a win is a must - but the competition will be fierce.
Among those set to compete is Japanese wunderkind Anraku Sorato, the rising star who pipped Lee to gold at this year’s Asian Games.
Insistent that when it comes to the crunch his focus is typically on himself, Lee remains confident that he can seize the moment: “I always tell myself, ‘Enjoy it. Don’t take it too seriously and perform effortlessly.”