IFSC Madrid 4 Speed 2024: Desak Made Rita Kusuma Dewi and Long Jianguo claim victory in four-lane test competition
Indonesian women were first and third in the Spanish capital with Olympic champion Veddriq Leonardo third in the men's final as Long beat Amir Maimuratov in a photo finish.
Sport Climbing
Desak Made Rita Kusuma Dewi and Long Jianguo triumphed in the first IFSC Madrid 4 Speed sport climbing competition on Saturday (19 October).
Some of the best speed climbers in the world gathered at the Explanada Puente del Rey for the test event using four lanes instead of the usual two, the format which will be used at the 2025 World Games in Chengdu.
There were two Indonesian athletes in the women's final with Desak taking victory in a time of 6.49. Her team-mate Raijah Sallsabillah was third behind Jeong Jimin of Republic of Korea. Zhang Shaoqin fell to miss out on the podium.
There was ample consolation for the People's Republic of China in the men's final as Long prevailed by the narrowest of margins from Kazakhstan's Amir Maimuratov.
Both men clocked 4.98 but it was the Chinese who won on a photo finish. Olympic champion Veddriq Leonardo made it three podium finishes for Indonesia in third place with Zach Hammer fourth after a slip. Hammer's American compatriot Sam Watson, the Olympic bronze medallist and world record holder, was forced to miss the event with food poisoning.
A standard two-lane IFSC speed competition will take place in the Spanish capital on Sunday.
Results from IFSC Madrid 4 Speed on Saturday 19 October 2024:
Women's Final
- Desak Made Rita Kusuma Dewi (INA) 6.49 seconds
- Jeong Jimin (KOR) 6.74
- Raijah Sallsabillah (INA) 9.65
- Zhang Shaoqin (CHN) FALL
Men's Final
- Long Jianguo (CHN) 4.98
- Amir Maimuratov (KAZ) 4.98
- Veddriq Leonardo (INA) 5.11
- Zach Hammer (USA) 9.55