The 28-year-old didn’t make the Japanese team for the Tokyo 2020 Olympics because NARASAKI Tomoa and HARADA Kai managed to seal their qualification berths first.
But he rebounded in style in Moscow with a maximum four out of four tops on Sunday (19th September) to take the world title, with Tomoa settling for silver.
“It was unbelievable,” he told Olympics.com afterwards. "I am not motivated by not making the Olympic team in Tokyo. I am motivated by making the team for Paris 2024, and I have never stopped believing in myself."
"I was also motivated by my new child, so hopefully this makes me a cool Dad!"
Tomoa was one of Japan’s big hopes for home success at the Olympics but finished the inaugural Olympic competition fourth overall. At the half-way point of the bouldering world championships, he was in the same position.
A spectacular performance on the final two boulders saw him finish in second place overall in Moscow.
IFSC Climbing World Championships: Cornu edges out Rubtsov for third
France’s Manuel Cornu screamed with emotion has he reached the top of the final boulder for third place.
The home crowd roared as Aleksey Rubtsov, representing Russia, made it to the top to keep him in contention going into the final boulder. But he was unable to reach the podium finishing in fourth place overall.
Speed climbing will feature at the Paris 2024 Olympics as its own discipline (rather than as a part of the combined competition) for the first time. Bouldering and lead with remain combined.
Don’t forget, Olympic Channel is the place to watch all the action from the 2021 World Championships in Moscow, and you can stream it all online via Olympics.com right here.