Emerging stars to watch at the IFSC Sport Climbing World Championships 2023
From 1 August to 12 August, the world’s climbing stars are competing at the IFSC Sport Climbing World Championships 2023 in Bern, Switzerland, where new talents will also be bursting onto the scene. Discover some of the rising prospects to look out for at the event here.
Sport Climbing
The 18th edition of the IFSC Sport Climbing World Championships has arrived, and the competitions have already started.
Ten Olympic quotas are up for grabs in the boulder and lead combined format, along with separate discipline of speed.
Speed (S), Boulder (B), and Lead (L) are the initial disciplines in which the climbers are competing. Following the singles disciplines, 20 athletes per gender will take on the new Olympic format of Boulder and Lead (B&L).
Here are some of the rising wonder kids bidding for gold at this year’s World Championships and in future events.
Men
18-year-old Toby Roberts has made his mark on this season's World Cup. In June, the British climber claimed his maiden World Cup win in boulder at the event in Brixen.
Just a month later, he followed up with another triumph in Chamonix, this time in lead climbing, becoming the first-ever British athlete to clinch gold medals in both lead and boulder disciplines.
Last year, he balanced his participation in both youth and senior competitions, achieving his inaugural podium at the World Cup event in Edinburgh. This accomplishment made him the first Brit in 28 years to secure a World Cup medal.
As the silver medalist from last year's youth World Championships in both lead and boulder, he currently holds the ninth spot in the world lead ranking and the fifth position in the bouldering ranking.
Anraku Sorato, a close friend of Roberts, surpassed the Brit and became the 2022 youth world champion in lead climbing.
Despite his young age, Sorato has already claimed four podium finishes in his debut senior World Cup season, leading the boulder world ranking. The Japanese emerged victorious in the lead event in Briançon and the boulder event in Innsbruck, marking the first time a Japanese climber has achieved such a feat in the event series.
Anraku's compatriot, 19-year-old Satone Yoshida, has also delivered impressive results, securing his first top-three finish in lead climbing at the Briançon World Cup.
The host country of the upcoming Olympic Games, Japan, boasts remarkable climbing talents. One French prospect to watch is 19-year-old Mejdi Schalck.
On the World Cup stage, Schalck has notched three boulder World Cup victories this year, triumphing in Hachioji and Seoul, in addition to his gold from Salt Lake City last year. Schalck currently ranks fourth in the world bouldering ranking.
MUNICH, GERMANY - AUGUST 14: Oriane Bertone of France competes in the Women's Sport Climbing boulder semifinal on day 4 of the European Championships Munich 2022 at Koenigsplatz on August 14, 2022 in Munich, Germany. (Photo by Adam Pretty/Getty Images)
Women
France also has an upcoming star on the women’s scene - Oriane Bertone. Growing up on the remote island of Réunion in the Indian Ocean, she beat Olympic champion Janja Garnbret in bouldering to secure victory at the World Cup in Prague.
The 18-year-old has made the podium three times this season. Last year, the French teenager was third at the European Championships in boulder behind Garnbret and Hannah Meul of Germany.
The 18-year-old has already graced the podium three times this season. Last year, the French teenager clinched the third spot at the European Championships in bouldering, trailing behind Garnbret and Germany’s Hannah Meul.
Oriane Bertone currently holds the fourth rank on the boulder world ranking.
Polish twin climbers Natalia and Aleksandra Kałucka have proven their prowess in the speed climbing elite. Overcoming a challenging start that left both sisters with blindness in one eye, Natalia Kałucka became the world champion in 2021, while Aleksandra Kałucka secured the overall World Cup speed title last year.
Natalia currently holds the top position on the world ranking, with her sister Aleksandra in third. The 21-year-old Polish twin sisters are both aiming for a Kałucka presence atop the podium at the World Championships in Bern.
Japan also showcases a promising rising talent in the women’s field with 19-year-old Nonoha Kume. Kume emerged victorious at the youth World Championships in lead last year and secured her inaugural podium finish in the same discipline in Chamonix last month, achieving second place in her debut senior season.
As the sport climbing World Championships unfold, the coming ten days at the PostFinance Arena in Bern will reveal the breakthrough athletes."