Sport Climbing World Cup 2023 Chamonix: Kim Jain and Toby Roberts win lead titles
Korean legend Kim Jain made a stunning return to the podium in Chamonix, France on Sunday (9 July) winning her first World Cup title since 2019. Toby Roberts of Great Britain continues his rise in the global ranks with his first lead victory on the circuit.
Sport Climbing
Great Britain’s Toby Roberts and the veteran Korean Republic climber Kim Jain triumphed in the men’s and women’s lead competitions at the IFSC Sport Climbing World Cup in Chamonix, France, on Saturday (8 July)
Jain turned back the clock, winning her first lead title at Chamonix since 2011. The 34-year-old Jain has made a stunning comeback since her return from a nearly three-year-long hiatus.
In an illustrious career spanning more than 14 years, Jain has won over 60 medals on the World Cup circuit - including 31 golds and 14 silvers.
The victory was her first since topping the podium in Japan in 2019 marking a remarkable return for one of the legends of the sport.
The enthusiastic Chamonix crowd cheered her on with each hold edging her closer to the top, with Jain reaching 43+. She shared the podium with Kume Nonoha (38+) and local hero Hélène Janicot (38+).
The competition came to a controversial end, with hot favourite Seo Chaehyun finishing at the bottom of the standings due to a technical error.
Sport Climbing World Cup 2023 Chamonix – Women's Lead Final results
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Kim Jain (KOR) - 43+
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Kume Nonoha (JPN) 38+
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Hélène Janicot (FRA) - 38+
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Jessica Pilz (AUT) - 37+
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Nonaka Miho (JPN) - 37+
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Mia Krampl (SLO) - 33
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Vita Lukan (SLO) - 29+
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Seo Chaehyun (KOR) - 22
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How to qualify for sport climbing (boulder and lead) at Paris 2024
Toby Roberts rising
Toby Roberts celebrated an equally momentous night claiming his first World Cup title in the lead competition. The 18-year-old Briton demonstrated nerves that belie his years lining up as the last climber in the final and bowing out as the only man to reach the top.
The effort earned him his second World Cup gold medal, adding to the boulder title he won earlier the season in Brixen, Italy.
Roberts relegated Frenchman Sam Avezou, who was in the lead after reaching hold 50, into second place. Japan’s Anraku Sorato rounded out the podium with 48.
The British climber was delighted with his first lead title describing the discipline as ‘special’. “It feels absolutely incredible, I’m at a bit of a loss for words, and I am still pumped,” Roberts said.
“That experience was just so surreal hearing the crowd behind me and just giving absolutely everything on that route to get a top. Nothing else feels like that.”
Sport Climbing World Cup 2023 Chamonix – Men's Lead Final results
- Toby Roberts (GBR) - Top
- Sam Avezou (FRA) - 50
- Anraku Sorato (JPN) - 48
- Alexander Megos (GER) - 46+
- Stefan Scherz (AUT) - 41
- Colin Duffy (USA) - 39+
- Luka Potocar (SLO) - 39+
- Lee Dohyun (KOR) - 39