Adam Ondra, Alberto Gines and Brooke Raboutou shine at OQS Shanghai bouldering qualification
Several of the sport’s most high profile athletes put on a solid first showing in perfect conditions at the first Olympic Qualifier Series in Shanghai, but there was disappointment for a reigning world champion.
Sport Climbing
Sport climbing's boulder qualification kicked off in style at the Olympic Qualifier Series Shanghai on Thursday (16 May).
In terms of the conditions, the athletes could not have asked for more: Sunny blue skies, warm temperatures, and a gentle breeze to keep them cool.
A special atmosphere at the Huangpu Riverside OQS Urban Park saw hundreds of fans pack out the seats surrounding the bouldering wall half an hour before the action even began, enjoying techno beats pumping out of the arena loudspeakers.
Not short of energy or motivation, Lee Dohyun of the Republic of Korea put on an impressive display to go top of men’s qualification, while in the absence of Olympic champion Janja Garnbret who has already claimed an Olympic quota**, Ukraine's** Levgeniia Kazbekova finished top in the women’s competition with some gravity-defying hangs.
Other athletes who shone include five-time world champion Adam Ondra, who finished the day in fifth position out of 46 athletes.
“I feel confident after this boulder round,” the Czech climber told Olympics.com. “My experience helps me to deal with this pressure situation.”
“It's great preparation and I kind of see it as an advantage. If you are (already) qualified (for Paris 2024) you are kind of disadvantaged that you can’t have this preparation. All the other World Cups are just in the single disciplines and not in combined format."
Spanish reigning men’s Olympic champion, Alberto Gines, who is best-known for lead prowess did an effective job on the bouldering wall to end the day in third, one behind Great Britain's Hamish McArthur.
Mejdi Schalck of France, who secured silver at the 2023 Worlds also didn’t disappoint, finishing fourth.
In the women’s event, Tokyo 2020 silver medallist Nonaka Miho of Japan sits in third, while USA star and 2023 bronze world medallist Brooke Raboutou settled for eighth.
“I definitely had some nerves, day one. But I did enjoy it. We do this all the time but somehow every one (competition) is nerve-wracking and feels different, which is why I love it," Raboutou said after.
“I felt pressure. But pressure is a privilege. So, I am excited to use that as an opportunity to learn from this format. Now, it’s just time to do what I love.”
It wasn’t all celebrations however. France’s reigning bouldering world champion Mickael Mawem finished down in 41st, and was visibly disappointed with his performance.
Meanwhile 2021 lead world champion, Seo Chaehyun of South Korea, is in 25th position.
The athletes will return tomorrow for the lead qualification, before the semi-finals on 18 May, and final on 19 May.
A total of 10 quota sports per gender in the the Boulder & Lead events can be obtained by athletes at OQS.
As National Olympic Committees have the exclusive authority for the representation of their respective teams at the Olympic Games, athletes' participation at Paris 2024 depends on their NOC selecting them to represent their delegation. Click here to view the qualification system for each sport.
You can watch the Olympic Qualifier Series (OQS) in Shanghai from 16 to 19 May live on Olympic Channel via Olympics.com and the official Olympics app for mobile devices.
OQS Shanghai sport climbing boulder qualification - Results
Women
1. Levgeniia Kazbekova (UKR)
2. Ito Futaba (JPN)
3. Camilla Moroni (ITA)
4. Nonaka Miho (JPN)
5. Luo Zhilu (CHN)
6. Zelia Avezou (FRA)
7. Erin McNeice (GBR)
8. Brooke Raboutou (USA)
9. Fanny Gibert (FRA)
10. Anastasia Sanders (USA)
Men
1. Lee Dohyun (KOR)
2. Hamish McArthur (GBR)
3. Alberto Gines (ESP)
4. Mejdi Schalck (FRA)
5. Adam Ondra (CZE)
6. Paul Jenft (FRA)
7. Sam Avezou (FRA)
8. Anze Peharc (SLO)
9. Nicolai Uznick (AUT)
10. Hannes Van Duysen (BEL)